It is magic, not just because it is nearly
obscene to eat caviar, sea urchin and lobster (stock) in one bite. No, it is
magic because in this dish Richard puts every single element in the right
place. Every component of this dish plays a distinct role. A role that adds its
own bit to the story, as this is cooking at its very finest.
But, but, but, let's start from the beginning. That cauliflower goes
well with seafood is no news. Think of dishes such as scallops with cauliflower
and raisins that chefs such as Gordon Ramsay and Jean Georges Vongerichten
claim to have created; Or Thomas Keller's cauliflower panna cotta with caviar. Joel Robuchon created the famous caviar with cauliflower, so there are plenty of dishes that combine these ingredients. They are delicious plates of food, all of them, regardless of who
created them in the first place. Fact is, the slightly earthy, sweet notes of
cauliflower work perfectly with the iodine, freshness of shellfish or caviar.
As you can probably see yourself, many aim to combine these elements and create
dishes that emulate the brilliance of very few. And yet, most fail to do so.
The dish has a sense of balance and refined power
Not Richard. His dish has a sense of
balance and refined power that you would rarely expect. Take its composition
for instance. There is a creamy puree of cauliflower, the lobster jelly, sea
urchin tongues and a generous quenelle of caviar. Apart from the slight crunch
of the caviar, you might ask where does the crunchy element stay? Every
brilliant dish must have contrasting textures Sergio Herman would say. That's
were the seaweed crackers come in that are served on the side. Have a bite of
the latter, followed by the former and you will have a surreal experience.
Not as rich as one might expect, this dish
plays more along the very fine, defined and concentrated line of a great white
wine. Everything is in its place, has just enough punch to give you a nearly
orgasmic experience, but is not over the top. There is nothing that makes you
think this is too rich or too powerful. And yet, it has so much flavour that
you can't forget it. Everything in here is spot-on, the sea urchin definitely
plays the leading role. It is creamy, briny and a tad sweet. Its supporting
actors - the lobster jelly, caviar and cauliflower - merely add to the
complexity of the dish and create a harmonious finish that makes you see what
food can do to you.
This is a dish of such purity and brilliance that you can't really compare it to much. It is so small in size, yet so big in the impact it creates. Kudos for Richard for treating us to such a delicious chef d'oeuvre, one that is more than worth the trip to Hong Kong and Amber.
