The site that now houses Medlar used to be
an Indian restaurant that prided itself with Gordon Ramsay coming down every
now and then. However, things have radically changed this year, with David
O'Connor and Joe Mercer Nairne creating their first restaurant in this
gastronomically deserted part of Chelsea. This is certainly not a curry place,
and that is evident from the moment you walk in. The colours are vivid and warm
at the same time, the decoration is simple, yet stylish and very modern. In
general this is a room that makes you feel quite good.
To make sure you really do feel well, David O'Connor who is one of the
most respected maîtres in London runs his young brigade with great charm and
professionalism. Despite the restaurant still being in its very first months of
existence, this is a brigade that knows how to take care of its guests. But, on
top of just doing a good job, every single person in this restaurant seems motivated and friendly. If you know that David headed the
Square's and Ledbury's service brigades before opening his own restaurant,
understand a few things...
warm and welcoming service and delicious food are what Medlar is all about
From this kitchen you shouldn't expect any pretentious or gimmicky creations. No, after spending some time at Rockpool, the Savoy Grill under Marcus Wareing and more recently Chez Bruce, Joe Mercer Nairne serves truly delicious and straightforward dishes. They are easy to read and love, bold in flavours and precise in execution. For any gourmand this is just the right place to be.
A good way to kick things off properly is the raviolo of crab with samphire and brown shrimps. Now, this might not be the most glamorously looking plate of food that has been put in front of you in a restaurant of such a standard, but it might well be among the tastier ones. The raviolo is generously filled with crab-meat that is full of flavour and boldly seasoned. To go with it, the bisque is of great complexity and concentration making the dish a delicious starter.
Another
signature dish in the making could be the wood pigeon with foie gras and
buttered kale. Roasted medium-rare, just as anyone with a decent mind would
like it to be, the bird pairs excellently with the richness of the foie gras,
and the earthy notes of the kale. As the name suggests, this one is not for
those on a diet, but for all others out there, it's a treat!
The desserts are similarly straight forward
and lovable. Be it a walnut tart with coconut shavings, or a lemon sorbet, all of them share the same level of hedonistic pleasure one imagines to get from them and the technical skills that make this kitchen stand out.
Alongside the interesting selection of
wines (including growers like Sang des Cailloux, Jean Foillard, Larmandier
Bernier, etc), the welcoming service and delicious food Medlar is exactly
what it aims for: Being an affordable restaurant that clearly is among the best
in town and promises a whole lot more.
