Of course some Chinese will complain about
this being a "Western-Chinese restaurant", a place that isn't "authentic", as
it is in a Western hotel. However, to those one can say only one thing: Why
complain if things taste good, are eaten in a beautiful room and brought to you
by a perfectly trained service brigade?
Because that is pretty much what Yu is. It is a restaurant that is first and foremost beautifully designed. Of course, in this case the hotel background helps a bit, as such lavish rooms are hardly possible to finance in other ways. Where the hotel also helps is in the case of the service. The brigade here is as perfect and friendly as it is in any area here, which makes eating here relaxing and casual.
If you look at the menu, you will see quite
a few Cantonese classics such as pressed suckling pig belly, a large selection
of dim sum and other goodies. The chef, Ku Chi Fai, serves food that is
technically impeccable and masterfully seasoned. The dishes here are as interesting, as they are balanced, tasty and light at the same time. This goes
first and foremost for a great dish of roast suckling pig. The skin has such an
incredible texture that it blows your socks off. It is crunchy and melting at
the same time, and full of flavours, giving you a sensation that words can
hardly describe. One thing Chinese chefs can do better than any Western chef is
treating any kind of crackling. The result is often a product of such delicacy
that it is unequalled in Western cooking. Here, it is no exception.
As this place is a Cantonese restaurant, the quality of the dim sum is of course of the highest order too. The pan-fried pork dumplings are of unusual delicacy and show how good such dumplings can be when done properly. They have a great balance between the crunchy dough, the tender and moist filling and burst of flavours they deliver. A siu mai and black fungus dumpling are no different and make clear how able this brigade is.
Finally, a word has to be set about a mango pudding with grapefruit and tapioca. This dish is often served in Chinese restaurants around the world, but rarely does it have such intense and balanced flavour. It is has an acidic kick, sweetness and comforting velvety texture. A perfect dessert!
Yu is a very strong restaurant. It serves food that is technically able, delicious and very well balanced. The service and beautiful rooms make the picture complete, and sure that a meal here will be time well spent.