In the
tiny village of Seasalter on the coast of Kent, Stephen Harris has created an
exceptional restaurant, ideal for anyone looking for pure flavour, clean
execution and perfect produce. No other restaurant on the British Isles could
pride itself on serving better food than The Sportsman.
Actually,
the place is nothing but a pub, and it looks like one so don't expect silver service
or expensive china. Yet the service is incredibly warm and friendly, and far
less formal than at other starred establishments (the restaurant currently holds
one star). The relaxed service is not a problem, though, as it fits the simple
and beautiful setting perfectly.
Wood is the dominant feature in the restaurant's decor, and through the windows, one can see sheep and swine munching away on the salt marshes around the house. A stone's throw away lies the sea, hidden only by dunes. Could there ever be a more romantic setting? Possibly, but those other settings won't have the food of The Sportsman, which is out of this world. Indeed, epicureans have been known to come all the long the way from California to this pub, just to eat Stephen Harris's food. So, what makes his dishes so special, how come The Sportsman is such an exceptional gastro pub?
England's best restaurant!
First,
Stephen is a produce enthusiast who goes to obsessive lengths to present his
guests with the finest of local foods. He makes his own butter, salt, bread and
ham. He grows his own vegetables and instructs adjacent farms on how he wants
his lambs and pigs raised. He must be one of a handful of chefs to do this. Secondly,
he lets the produce speak, or rather sing, for itself. Such simplicity is
convincing as here the produce is immaculate and the technical basis of the
kitchen faultless. Pork belly with cabbage and bread sauce is arguably as
British as you can get. Here, you will have it as good as it gets, with
incredible crackling, meltingly tender meat and cabbage that is cared for as it
if were a diamond.
Saucing is
another strength of the house, evidenced by the sauces that accompany the fish
dishes. A huge tranche of turbot can be sent with a vin jaune, or Champagne sauce, both of which contain captivating
flavour and texture. Other highlights of Stephen's cooking are his variations
of scallops, which can be served in as much as three different parts. Over the
course of the tasting menu, which has to be pre-booked (around £60), one will
immediately see how terrific British produce can be, when treated with sufficient
respect. The wine list is as friendly as the pub itself, and boasts such steals
as a 2001 Palmer for £79. For all those who want to drink a few big guns, the
corkage is a very agreeable £5.
If you are wondering about the pub element of The Sportsman, have a taste of Stephen's pork scratchings. They are guaranteed to be better than any you have ever eaten before. Or will eat ever after. This restaurant is a gem, a real one!
