by Thierry Nicolas - February 21, 2011

Estate E. Pira

E.Pira is one of the top producers of Barolo and one of the few run by a woman: Chiara Boschis. This estate's wines can be found on the wine lists of many three-star restaurants all over the world (e.g. Fat duck and French laundry) and have a long history. And yet, they have that same pleasant youthful enthusiasm that so many young wineries have. 

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In some ways they are old-fashioned here. The grandfather of the family labels every single bottle by hand, at a time when other wineries have adopted labeling machines a long time ago. However, it is not only the grandfather, who personifies the history of the estate. The vineyard manager too, has been working the vines of the Pira vineyards for over 60 years. He has developed such an affinity for the vines, the grapes and earth that it is quite impressive talking to him. There are no laboratories used to determine when is the right time for the harvest, or how the earth has to be worked, only his intuition is needed.

The Pira family used to run this estate for generations, yet when all male members died, they sold the property to friends, who now take care of it: The Boschis. At the moment, Chiara Boschis is running the show. Immediately after taking over, she started introducing more modern production techniques. The fermentation now takes place at very high temperatures, and only lasts for a short time, after which the wines get transferred into 50% new oak. Her goal is to produce wines that have softer, and fewer tannins and are thus more approachable in their youth. All that remains of the traditional methods is a fermentation tank that somehow acts as a reminder of the long history of this estate. 

The annual production rarely exceeds 2000 cases

The wines produced here are of great quality, but not available in large quantities. The entire estate's vineyards cover only 6.5h of land, and only about 2.5h are used to produce the Barolo. Those two and a half hectares are located in the finest possible places: Cannubi, Cannubi San Lorenzo and Via Nuova. With such a small estate, it is not astonishing that the annual production rarely exceeds 2000 cases.

Mentioning 2000: The year 2000 was an extremely good year in Barolo. If you have the chance to try the ‘'E.Pira&Pira Cannubi 2000'' (magnum) you will understand why this estate holds such a reputation. It has a characteristic ruby red color with orange rim. The wine is nicely balanced, full-bodied, complex and has a magnificent aftertaste! It possesses aromas of forest floor, leather, tobacco, coffee, licquorice, mint and orange. Wines of higher quality than this are not easily found.

It is a great combination of the best of both worlds that takes place at E.Pira & Pira. You have some of the old-fashioned techniques still in use, paired with the visions of Chiara Boschis, who are driving this estate nowadays.  


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